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election ’08 issues watch · Iran
A Wing and a Prayer: A Six-Day Photo Journey Inside Iran

On a recent assignment in Iran, a Russian photojournalist captured these images of a land much debated but little seen by Westerners. Yet some of his strongest impressions were of places he was unable to photograph.

Photos and narrative by Sergey Maximishin

Illustration (map) by Lisa Blackshear


Excerpt: My Iranian guide has warned me about Mashhad, the country’s second-largest city, which lies 500 miles east of Tehran and just 100 miles from where Iran’s eastern border abuts both Turkmenistan and Afghanistan (map, page 28). Religious pilgrims have made Mashhad one of Iran’s most visited destinations; it is a place known for its strict adherence to Islamic mores—for women the full-length chador is the rule. . . . ¶Cameras and mobile phones are forbidden within the complex of gold-domed mosques known as the Imam Reza Holy Shrine . . . [but] I decide to go and try to photograph the holy site anyway. How can I not? I’ve been sent on this, my first trip to Iran, by Russian Geo, my home country’s edition of the European popular-science and geography magazine. The editor in chief asked me to make a sort of visual portrait of the country—a dream assignment that prompted me to apply for a visa. Five months later, after I’d given up hope, the visa came through, and now, in December 2006, the notion that I’m actually here still seems a little surreal. . . .

About the photographer-writer: St. Petersburg–based Sergey Maximishin’s photos have been published in leading newspapers and magazines in both the West and his native Russia. Trained as an army photographer under the former Soviet regime in the late 1980s (including a two-year stint in Cuba), Maximishin returned to the field a decade later, working as a staff photographer for Izvestia from 1999 to 2003. He has been freelancing steadily since leaving the paper; a portfolio of stories is on view at www.maximishin.com.
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